Cardinal : Fine Dining by Chef Tomas Gormley
I’ve known Chef Tomas Gormley’s cooking for years, from the wild brilliance of Skua to the swagger of his latest project, Guilded Saloon, and stepping into Cardinal felt like walking into the fully realised version of everything he’s been building towards. Cardinal, which opened in late 2023 as his first solo fine‑dining restaurant, is Tomas in full command of his craft: precise, creative, and utterly assured, but without a hint of stiffness. The whole place hums with confidence, intention and a quiet sense of joy.
Tucked just off Dundas Street, Cardinal is understated from the outside, but once you step in, the room unfolds with a contemporary sleekness that feels instantly deliberate. Dark, moody tones anchor the space, while abstract paintings pull your eye with bold pops of colour. It’s modern without being cold, stylish without ever tipping into showy.
There’s a calmness to the room, a muted brightness that softens the edges and invites you to settle in. Textures do a lot of the talking here: smooth surfaces, soft curves, and those tactile finishes that make you want to trail your fingers along them as you pass. It’s a space designed to be felt as much as seen.
We loved our seats by the window, the perfect little perch to watch the world outside while staying cocooned in Cardinal’s atmosphere. Even with other guests dotted around the room, it somehow felt like we were in our own private bubble, just the two of us wrapped up in the rhythm of the kitchen and the gentle hum of the dining room.
Chef Tomas Gormley has become one of Edinburgh’s most exciting culinary voices, and Cardinal is the clearest expression yet of his evolution. A restaurant that showcases his most refined, confident cooking to date.
We arrived for a simple three‑course lunch (£55). We left over two hours later having eaten our way through most of the tasting menu (£89), grinning like we’d just gotten away with something. Honestly, who could ask for a better lunchtime experience.
The miso broth opened the meal with a kind of gentle intent; warm, savoury, quietly complex, the sort of first sip that lets you know the kitchen is paying attention to every detail. Then came a tiny tartlet that packed a punch far bigger than its size: cod roe, cucumber, squid ink and halibut, a little black‑and‑green jewel that disappeared far too quickly.
For a mocktail, I went for the Shady Pines: Seedlip Spiced, pineapple, beet and smoke. It arrived looking like a potion and tasted like someone had distilled autumn into a glass.
Then the rhythm of the kitchen really kicked in. Beremeal sourdough with brown butter, the kind of bread course that makes you consider cancelling the rest of your plans. A crab rarebit with dill crumpet followed, rich and comforting but lifted with a slight herbal brightness. Yoghurt, seabuckthorn, carrot and sea trout arrived next, a dish that felt like a painter’s palette: sharp, creamy yet foamy, delicate, and full of light.
But the lemongrass, leek and scallop… that was the one. Outrageously good. Silky, aromatic, a dish that stops conversation mid‑sentence. The scallop was perfectly cooked, sitting in a pool of foam on a bed of leek spherified caviar that burst with a fresh, bright pop every time you hit one - a tiny surprise in every bite.
And it’s no surprise that my next favourite dish was the lobster, continuing my unwavering love of all things seafood. Large, juicy chunks of perfectly cooked lobster, sweet and tender, with that gentle smokiness woven through every bite. The smoked lobster with pink fir kept the momentum going; sweet, smoky, perfectly judged, and the kind of dish that makes you pause just to appreciate how well everything on the plate has been thought through.
Next was the venison with miso, blueberry and beetroot, a plate that managed to be earthy, elegant and quietly dramatic all at once. A cheddar tart with onion and apple to share served as the cheese course, and it was exactly what you want at that point in the meal: savoury, buttery, crumbly, a little nostalgic.
Then came a pre‑dessert of chocolate and cocoa nibs with quince which came with hot chocolate being poured into the dish - a tiny palate‑reset that tasted like a wink. Dessert was poppy seed, lemon and malt, with these flavours intertwined into delicate tuiles and a malty sorbet that sent you out on a high.
Coffee arrived with petit fours - cola bottles, macarons, chocolates - playful and polished.
Cardinal was right at the top of my list to visit, and after this meal it now sits firmly at the top of my most‑recommended restaurants in Edinburgh. The flavours are bold and exciting, the plating is precise without ever feeling fussy, and the team strike that perfect balance of being friendly, knowledgeable and effortlessly present when you need them. For a tasting menu of this calibre, the pricing feels more than fair, especially with the thoughtful wine pairings and genuinely excellent cocktails and mocktails on offer. Cardinal is a restaurant in its stride already, and one I’m convinced is only going to keep climbing. Definitely one to watch.
THINGS TO NOTE ABOUT CARDINAL
Only open for lunch Fridays and Saturdays, and dinner Monday to Saturday
They cater for vegetarians and can cater for gluten free, vegan, pescatarian but need advance warning
They are not dog friendly
They are disabled accessible
On street paid parking available
Cardinal, 14 Eyre Place, Edinburgh, EH3 5EP www.cardinal.scot
My Spoon Award : Tartan Spoon 10/10
I was invited by Cardinal to review their menu. Food and drink were complimentary but the views are very much my own.
TartanSpoon is an Award-winning blog that brings you reviews and recommendations on the very best places to eat, drink and stay in Edinburgh, Scotland and beyond.
Adele is a writer, reviewer and judge living in Edinburgh. She sits on the Committee for the Guild of Food Writers (Scottish Events), is a Great Taste Judge for the Guild of Fine Food, Scottish Bakers, Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards and a Judge for the Gin Co-operative awards. Should you wish to work with, invite or collaborate with TartanSpoon, please email tartanspoon@yahoo.co.uk
