TRAVEL : Arbroath Smokie Trail, Angus

The scent lingers. It hangs heavy in the air and there is no escaping the deep intense smoky aroma that wafts through the air in Arbroath, especially around the harbour. This is home to the Arbroath Smokie, haddock that has been salted, dried and then smoked.

The smokie originated in Auchmithie, a mere 3 miles from Arbroath. As the fishing industry slowly disappeared in the late 1800s, the people from Auchmithie resettled in Arbroath around the harbour area bringing their Smokie recipes with them. The Arbroath Smokie is now world famous and has PGI status, meaning that it can only be produced within 5 miles of Arbroath for it to be called an Arbroath Smokie.

With such important food heritage on their doorstep, Angus Council, are reintroducing the Arbroath Smokie Trail, taking in five tremendous stops along an approx 2 hour 30 minute walk from Arbroath’s Signal Tower Museum, along the Arbroath Cliffs to where it all began, the village of Auchmithie.

They have drawn up a very handy, simple map to follow, provided some key facts on each stop and even created short podcasts for each stop that you can listen too on arrival or during your walk.

VISIT ANGUS - ARBROATH SMOKIE TRAIL

The trail is very informative, easy to walk and an all round very pleasant way to while away a couple of hours. Besides being a very charming activity I love that its :

  • Accessible. I have a dodgy knee, so for me uphill climbing and stairs really aren’t my thing. Most of this walk is on flat ground. There are places along the cliffs with a slight incline and decline but nothing overly strenuous and all of the path is paved in some way.

  • Open. The Signal Tower Museum is the only place where you might to visit during opening hours. Do check their website, but even if it is closed, you can walk around it and then head on to the harbour stop.

  • Whenever suits. It’s up to you when you want to do this trail, Monday to Sunday any time of the day, any month of the year.

  • If you are an avid walker, you can park your car at Arbroath Harbour and then start the trail from the Signal Tower to Auchmithie, catching a return bus back to Arbroath or you can drive and park at the harbour for access to stops 1-3, drive to the cliffs (stop 4) and then onto Auchmithie (last stop). The route is so flexible and suitable to many.

  • There are many food and drink places along the route, so you’ll never go hungry or thirsty.

  • Toilets are a plenty too. At the start of the trail pop into the Arbroath Visitor Centre located at the harbour and again there are public toilets at the start of the Cliffs trail.

  • So many benches and places to sit; not only to catch your breath and to take a breather, but also just to take some time and look out over the water. Fantastic bird and wild life to see, boats to watch and harbour life. Time to take it all in.

  • You can set your own pace. There is no time limit and like I mentioned before, you can walk it, run it, cycle it or drive it. Just go do it, it’s really worth it!

START - THE SIGNAL TOWER MUSEUM

Want a peek into the town and area’s fishing and maritime past, this is the place to visit. It details all there is to know about the Bell Rock Lighthouse and why a Smokie is called a Smokie.

I thoroughly loved spending time here just sitting outside, watching the sunlight dance across the water and watch boats enter the harbour. I fascinating start to the trail.

For the map and information on The Signal Tower Museum, click here

To listen to the podcast, click here

STOP 2 - ARBROATH HARBOUR

A few yards away from the Signal Tower, you’ll find the gorgeous working harbour of Arbroath. Boats and yachts lie in slumber tied to jettys along the marina whilst fishermen work hauling in their catches on the other side. Walk along and try to see if there is a boat named after you or someone you know, pass lobster pots and creels, watch fishermen on their boats and shipmen work in the boatyard. There is so much to see here and as someone who loves to people watch and quite happy at snapping a few pics, this harbour provided endless entertainment and joy. It’s captivating and also a fab place to grab an ice cream whilst you wander. The Old Boatyard Restaurant (located between the Signal Tower and the Visitor Centre at the Harbour) makes Smokie Ice Cream, should you wish to try it.

For the map and information on the harbour, click here.

To listen to the podcast, click here

Between stops 2 and 3, we ventured off to one of many fishmongers sited around the harbour. We stopped into E&O Fish to get ourselves a pair of Arbroath Smokies to make a Smokie Skink when we got home (third photo here is our homemade Smokie Cullen Skink). Their counters are laden with shellfish such as prawns, lobsters, mussels and fish.

There is no denying it, Smokies are popular in Arbroath with signs around every corner directing you to smokehouses, fish n chip takeaways, restaurants and fishmongers all with the same number one item at the top of their menu, the Arbroath Smokie.

You’ll find Smokie Pancakes, Smokie Fishcakes, Smokie Risotto and smokie just about everything else.

Should you feel hungry at this point or want to have a look at the Arbroath Smokie, here are a few places to visit within a stones throw of the harbour and Fit o the Toon.

FISHMONGERS

  • C Lyons (great name)

  • The Fish Hoose

  • E&O

FISH N CHIPS/ICE CREAM

  • The Marina

  • The Golden Haddock

  • Marco’s on the Shore

FOOD/COFFEE

  • The Old Brewhouse

  • Treasures Arbroath

  • Andreous Bistro

STOP 3 - FIT O THE TOON

The harbour leads effortlessly into the Fit O the Toon and the row of cottages along the seafront with their washing billowing in the sea breeze. It’s a heart warming sight to see and I wish I had taken a photo of it. This is also where visitors and I have no doubt some locals, play with the waves to see if they can dodge the sea spray. It’s here the Brothock Burn meets the sea in an angry exchange of power at High Tide. The waves come crashing over the walls. I managed to elude a wave or five but the couple next to me weren’t so lucky!

For the map and information on Fit o the Toon, click here

To listen to the podcast, click here

STOP 4 - THE CLIFFS

Keep walking and you’ll come onto Kings Drive, essentially Arbroath’s esplanade. At the end of this road is the start of the walk along Whiting Ness Cliffs. This is a busy spot offering incredible views of the coastline. Many people park up here, go for a walk, grab a Bridie from PieBob’s and eat it in the car whilst steaming up the windaes, or munch on a big luscious fat Chocolate Eclair ready to walk off the calories along the coastal path.

They have a great information board here, providing details of varying walks, the time it takes to return walk to points of interest along the coastal path.

  • Smugglers Stroll takes 30mins, 1.5 mile walk

  • The Devil’s Dander takes 45mins, 2 mile walk

  • Musical Flairs takes 1 hour, 2.6 miles walk

  • Hell and Back takes 1 hour 30mins, 3.8 miles walk

  • The Big Smokie (one way) to Auchmithie takes 1 hour 40mins, 4 miles walk

There’s caves, ruins, castles and cliffs including The Deil’s Heid, Mermaid’s Tunnel and The Needles Eye. With names like that, any explorer will want to go a-wandering.

This is also a great stop for a quick bite and a toilet stop. If you didn’t pack a picnic, or tuck into that smokie and chips back in Arbroath, grab something from the food truck sited here and then head on along the path.

For the map and information on The Cliffs, click here

To listen to the podcast, click here

LAST STOP - AUCHMITHIE

This is the hidden gem just outside Arbroath. A one street village with huge character that stirs deep in a city dweller like me, having me yearning in no time, to move to the country and a quieter way of life.

The views here are magnificent. Look back out of the village and it’s fields as far as the eye can see of brussell sprouts and cabbages, turn around and the canvas changes; to rows of white washed cottages hugging the cliffs with a wee road that leads down to a rocky beach that hangs on tightly to that glorious ever changing rugged coastline.

This is the final stop on the Arbroath Smokie Trail, but its not complete without stopping in at the But n Ben restaurant for a Smokie Pancake. You’ll not be disappointed and your tummy will thank you for it. Read my review here

Once watered and fed, its your choice to walk back along the path or catch the No 35 bus just outside the But n Ben to Arbroath Bus Station. It takes around 15 minutes.

With the salty air tangled in my hair and a smokie pancake warming my belly (along with the choc eclair, the bridie and the ice cream); it was time to head back home to Edinburgh. Traffic permitting, it takes 1 hour 40 minutes to drive to Arbroath and the roads are good.

For the map and information on Auchmithie, click here.

To listen to the podcast, click here

As I mentioned earlier, this is a fantastic walk. It’s easy and takes you on a wonderful journey through Arbroath town and along its coastline. The tale of the Arbroath Smokie is woven into every aspect of this walk and provides a variety of ways in which to try this local delicacy.

There are another two secret Arbroath Smokie Trail stops - accessible only by car and are outside of Arbroath but both have strong tie ins with the Arbroath Smokie.

  • The Gin Bothy, Glamis for the Smoked Gin - Read my review here

  • Hospitalifield for contemporary art associated with the Smokie and their delicious cafe menu featuring the Smokie Fishcake.

Many thanks to Visit Angus for inviting me on the Arbroath Smokie Trail. The trail was launched in September in conjunction with Appetite for Angus and Angus Tourism Cooperative.

Edinburgh restaurant, latest blog post, most popular, TRAVELBy Adele Connabroathvisit angus, arbroath smokie trail, arbroath smokies, arbroath, auchmithie, visit scotland, food and drink trail