REVIEW : Lorenz Adlon Restaurant, Berlin

My first time in Berlin and my second time in Germany in twenty years. I was super excited to be visiting Berlin, as I had heard so many great things about it - it’s a must visit place for art and food they said…

The bar had been set, my expectations were high.

It was Valentines Weekend and Mr TS was treating me all the way; the highlight was most definitely a reservation at the beautiful 2 Michelin Star Lorenz Adlon restaurant located in one of the worlds most luxurious hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Berlin, right next to the Brandenburg Gate.

The Hotel Adlon Kempinski is the most glamorous and sought after 5 star luxury hotel in Berlin. It’s guest list includes the likes of Michael Jackson and our Queen. The hotel has been going since 1907 and the foyer area has recently been refurbished at a cost of a cool £6 million; it includes velvet sofas and bergere armchairs as well as the 1.5m Murano chandelier (which you can catch a glimpse of in the background) and its famous elephant fountain.

The hotel boasts three restaurants, one being the 2 Michelin Star Lorenz Adlon helmed by Chef Hendrik Otto who has called this place his home since 2010.

The restaurant is on the 1st floor and consists of two large interconnecting rooms that resemble old drawing rooms with walls covered in books. Both rooms have large circular tables (approx 6 per room) and ideally two guests per table.

Pristine white floor length table clothes, large comfortable chairs and a very romantic atmosphere greet you, as you shown to your table.

The space they have created is magical in that, although there are other guests only a few metres away, you feel like it’s just you and your partner in a wee bubble all by yourselves. There is no intrusion, there is no overbearing jibber jabber from other diners - just a very peaceful, almost surreal dining space where you can share a stunning dining experience with the one you love.

Dinner at Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer Berlin Germany

We chose the 8 course tasting menu with paired wines - 350Euros or £310 per person.

First up was our Amuse Bushe. 3 stunning looking bite sized morsels were set down in front of us.

Stuffed Pimientos de Padron pepper was my favourite from this trio and although I am not a fan of spicy food, this came with just the right amount of heat to be tangy rather than hot.

One a separate plate, came this seriously beautiful mouthful of smoked eel with a yuzo type sphere. The flavours just hit your palate and exploded whilst your tastebuds done a merry wee dance.

To accompany this we enjoyed this rather interesting concoction. An acidic citrus ice cube to which you add a fruity port.

d’Arenberg Nostalgia Rare Tawny Port

This is an Australian port from Mclaren Vale region and this port is the oldest release every year from d’Arenberg. The palate is very lively, with spice - think cinnamon, Christmas spices, dark candied fruit and toasted honey.

I found this combination very more-ish. Sweet to the initial taste with the citrus hanging about on the back note. Lovely way to ready your tastebuds.

Whilst waiting for our first course our bread basket arrive. This is called the Rock n Roll and served with oils and balsamic vinegars for dipping.

Can you spot the breadrolls?

FIRST COURSE - Goose liver mousse and parfait with grape reduction, dried figs and lardo, pineapple paper and confit citrus.

The first thing that hit me about this dish was the colours on the plate set against the colours of the Rock n Roll and the restaurant; they complimented each other and it provided a sense of confidence in the cooking.

I am not a fan of liver mousse and I found that on its own, I still wasn’t a fan, but combine it with the other ingredients on this plate onto a few carefully arranged mouthfuls, and the liver takes a back seat, providing only the creaminess and enhancing the figs, the grapes and the citrus. The pineapple crisp was lovely.

SECOND COURSE - Langoustino with braised bell pepper, jalapeño, celery, mango, lime leaves and a crustacean stock.

After the first course I was excited to move on the next. I adore seafood, so I was licking my lips in anticipation of this dish and it knocked it out the ballpark!

The stock, heavy with tropical fruits and some heat really played out well and only complimented the soft succulent yet firm flesh of the langoustines. They happily embraced each other.

Opimio Pinot Bianco Ca’Bolani

An Italian Pinot Blanc wine that goes well with shellfish and rich fish like salmon. Very dry with medium acidity.

THIRD COURSE - Norwegian Salmon with rapeseed, amaranth, emulsion of fir honey, noan olive oil, dill, curly parsley and Szechuan pepper.

Sincere apologies, this photo just doesn’t do this delicate crust topping justice. I could almost see the chefs, tweezers in hand, placing each ingredient and flower precisely onto of this stunning fillet of salmon. The wonderful thing about this dish, is that each mouthful tasted different as each forkful burst with various tastes and textures.

Boessneck Sylvaner 2015

A German white wine with a good balance, not too acidic and a long aftertaste.

FOURTH COURSE - Fennel, Gillardeau oyster, lemon caviar, fermented pepper, verbena, curry, fennel herb and piment d'espelette

Absolutely without a doubt the most stunning dish of the evening. The intricacy of the fennel layered ontop was astonishing and the overall presentation was superb.

I hate oysters and was worried that this dish was going to have the oyster incorporated into the serving. I had already worked out in my head how I could give Mr TS my oyster as he loves them.

Thankfully, I was able to let out a sigh of relief as the oyster was served separately on a bed of ice. Happily I could capture the photo and then let Mr TS tuck into two oysters.

Vouvray Demi Sec 2016 Foreau

A French Chenin Blanc with notes of citrus fruits including orange and pink grapefruit and perhaps some mango on the nose. A fantastic demi-sec cuvée, energetic, long and minerally.

FIFTH COURSE - Beetroot, celeriac, elderberry juice, blueberry gel, goose fat, Jerusalem artichoke and shallot.

Every single thing on this plate made me happy. It was filled with plants and fruits I love and superbly cooked and plated.

Landmann Pinot Noir 2016 Frieburg

A German red wine ideal with game or beef or wagyu. Big notes of red cherries, liquorice and minerals. It’s light, smooth and very dry with high acidity. Delicious though.

SIXTH COURSE - Short Rib of Wagyu, coarse polenta, nut butter, bone marrow, pine nuts, vegetable jus, tarragon and lemon thyme.

My first thought - why do restaurants use square plates, they are so difficult to photograph hahaha but then the second thought was, wagyu beef - mmmmm.

Although the wagyu was soft, it wasn’t melt in the mouth and it was quite bland. For me short ribs hold flavour when they have been long slow cooked and fall of the bone and I have tasted better.

Bone marrow as served separate, and I felt you needed this to add a little flavour to the dish.

Chateau le Bon Pasteur Pomerol 2003

A French red wine ideal with meat and poultry. Lots of plum, leather, smokiness evident in big bold, high tannin wines like this. Not as dry as the previous wines and slighter softer too on the acidity.

SEVENTH COURSE - Bleu d'Auvergne, warm and iced blue cheese cream, coriander seeds, dried apple, condensed milk ice cream, sponge cake, bergamot and balsamic vinegar.

These two morsels, which remind me of macarons, were utterly scrumptious. They are served warm, but the blue cheese cream is cold and it’s just an amazing flavour bomb in your mouth.

My only gripe - I wouldn’t exactly call it a course!

Uroulat Jurancon 2016

A French dessert wine that was tropical, medium bodied with medium acidity. It was served with the blue cheese, and the palate cleanser I thought it was a great pairing.

PALATE CLEANSER - this was most welcome. Seven courses down and your mouth most certainly deserves a little TLC and resetting.

Planeta Passito Di Noto 2018

An Italian dessert wine made from the Moscato Bianco grape. I thought this was outstanding with the flavours of apricots, peaches, mango, honey and ginger. It’s intense, slightly sweet and well balanced.

EIGHTH COURSE - Lettuce and yogurt with passion fruit, carrot, white chocolate, lavender, amarettini and popped cereal.

Well this was a course that I had no idea about, couldn’t conjure an image in my mind beforehand and was totally blown away when it arrived.

The beautiful coolness of the lettuce and lettuce ice cream - really!!??! I loved this.The pale green sauce was a lettuce yoghurt lassi!

POST DESSERT - flambed cake with espuma of Grand Marnier and rum served with delicate white chocolate flowers from the white chocolate tree that only grows in their kitchen!

PETIT FOURS - and just when you think there is nothing more for the kitchen to bring us, they bring out four petit fours.

Ice cream and cakes, including the most amazing Chocolate Gateaux bite sized bomb I’ve ever had. Wonderful!

The location and setting for this restaurant is perfection. The restaurant is elegant and opulent, and you know from the moment you step inside you are in for a treat.

The staff are friendly and knowledgeable and were happy to answer any questions we had regarding the food and the wine. One interesting thing we noticed is that there is no provenance placed on the ingredients unlike Scotland where you need to know where each and every ingredient you are serving comes from and whether or not it’s sustainable, ethical, local and seasonal.

Germany does use great ingredients but they use global foods to make up their dishes.

Would I return to Lorenz Adlon? Yes if someone else was paying. 8 courses with wine is an indulgence and most definitely a one off treat. If you are in Berlin, have something special to celebrate and money to burn, then go - the all round foodie experience is worth it.

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer, Unter den Linden 77, 10117 Berlin Tel +49 30 2261 1960 www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de

My Spoon Award : 9/10 Gold Spoon