REVIEW : EAT - Mokotowska 69, Warsaw, Poland

Poland has started its journey of becoming a foodie destination. For many years Poland’s food has been very traditional with pierogi’s (dumplings), golabki (pork or beef with rice wrapped in cabbage leaves) and bigos (meat stew with cabbage and sauerkraut) along with a lot of pickled vegetables taking centre stage in the culinary field for years.

In 2013, things changed with Poland receiving it’s first Michelin star, awarded to Warsaw based restaurant, Atelier Amaro who’s Chef, Wojciech Modest Amaro worked with the likes of Ferran Adria from Elbulli and Rene Redzepi from Noma.

The standard of Polish cuisine was set to change and Poland now has 50 restaurants in the Michelin Guide, 2 have Michelin Stars, 6 Bib Gourmands and 42 Michelin Plates.

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Review of Mokotowska 69 restaurant and wine bar in Warsaw Poland

On our very first night in Poland, we headed to Michelin recommended and plate awarded, Mokotowska 69 in Warsaw. This is a restaurant and wine bar, which specialises in steak and seafood. The take traditional Polish dishes and give them a good twist. Not only will you find great local produce on your plate but they also bring in the best from around the world. Expect to see American Black Angus certified prime beef grade by the USDA, Scottish Aberdeen Angus and highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu beef (“Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+).

To accompany this great food, the wines are international ensuring that you are provided with the ideal pairing for each of your courses. The wines change with the seasonal menu and are sourced from as far a field as America, Chile, Argentina and New Zealand.

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We ate from a set menu as there was 16 of us but you can enjoy the likes of Oysters Rockerfeller (£7.83) or Seared Foie Gras with caramelised apples and blackcurrent jam (£13.85) or Roasted Goose leg with black lentil, honey glazed beets and all spice forest fruit sauce (£14.85).

Mokotowska 69 do a 4 course Steak Tasting menu for 4 people which is £119.43 or £29.85 each and includes Filet Mignon from Poland, Filet Mignon from Black Angus USA, Red Heifer Ribeye 21 day aged, Ribeye Z Black Angusa USA Prime Beef or New York Sirloin to which you can add the Japanese Wagyu from Hida Gyu Kobe style, grade 9+/A5 9+/A5 (which is the highest grade in the world) at just under £40 for 100g.

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I chose a the lovely Austrian white wine, Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner 2018, to enjoy with my meal. It’s bursting with ripe pear, lemon and salty yeast, it has a slight spritz to it with quite a dry finish that brings the saltiness to the fore. I loved it!

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STARTERS

Carpaccio marinated with Bison Grass and mustard olive oil served with shaved artisan cheese. This dish was so bright and vivid; the thin slices of beef stark against the white plate. The cheese shaving highly complimented this dish but I would hold back on so much salad and salad dressing as it distracts from the carpaccio and tasting that the hit of beef. (£7.83)

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STARTER

Salad Mesclun with goats cheese, fig and vinaigrette. This was the other starter option that fellow blogger Phat Cupcake ordered. Again plenty of salad but this time it complimented the smooth tangy goats cheese. A thumbs up for this dish. (no price available).

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MAINS

Roasted cornfed Chicken Breast with vegetables butter sauce and potato puree. I loved this dish. The chicken was served on the bone and it was soft, succulent and bursting with perfect flavour. The potatoes smooth and the veg cooked perfectly and well seasoned too. (£8.83)

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MAINS

Masurian Catfish sauteed with horseradish and paradise apples and served with a risotto. The fish was cooked well, with a hint of the horseradish coming through and a slight sweetness from the apples. Not a combination you would think would work well, but it does. (£13.45)

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DESSERT

Caramelised plums with vanilla ice cream and crumbles. I so wanted this dish to be amazing but it just fell short. The plums were hard and cold, just not enough time spent in the oven softening up and they were slightly bitter too. They definitely required longer cooking and more sugar to allow the caramelisation to happen. All in all, it was nice but had the potential to be fabulous. (£5.62)

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DESSERT

Napoleon Cake with vanilla filling and seasonal fruit. I think this was the dessert of the night. Perfectly formed mille feuille layers with sweet creamy vanilla filling. (£6.42)

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What a way to start our Poland Tastes Good food tour. I had no idea what to expect from Poland and this meal and setting had set the bar high. A very difficult dining experience to beat but as I soon discovered, all our foodie experiences where so different that no comparison was possible.

Mokotowska 69, is a beautiful intimate circular restaurant that oozes charm and romance. If you are looking to treat someone special, then I think this is worth considering. We were sat in the private dining area of the restaurant which I think during busy times, just becomes part of the restaurant. It’s shelves are laden with bottles upon bottles of wine, glass decanters and sparkling lights - it is rather inviting.

The staff were extremely attentive and friendly but unobtrusive, they just seemed to know when you would need them.

I’d love to return in the Summer as they have a lovely outdoor eating area, that with the sparkly lights under the night sky would be utterly magical. I’d love to try their steak tasting menu and have it paired with wines as I think this is the area that they excel in.

Mokotowska 69, 00-533 Warszawa, Mokotowska 69 str. Tel. : +48 22 6287384 www.mokotowska69.pl/en



My Spoon Award : Gold Spoon 9/10