Ondine at Seaton House, St Andrews - A Coastal Gem with Quiet Confidence
There’s something about arriving at in St Andrews that instantly lowers your shoulders, and arriving at Seaton House on the sea front truly makes you exhale. Maybe it’s the sweep of West Sands Beach, (which was exceptionally blustering yet beautiful on our arrival), maybe the salt in the air, or maybe it’s the anticipation of what Ondine has waiting inside - a restaurant that feels both luxuriously grown‑up and effortlessly relaxed.
Ondine is tucked into the first floor of Seaton House Hotel, sitting right above reception with those big, bold windows that drink in every inch of the St Andrews seafront. You spot it before you spot the hotel; it’s got that kind of presence. Seaton House Hotel is a sleek, luxury escape on the St Andrews seafront with bags of quiet charm and I’ll be sharing a full review of our stay very soon.
The Space
Ondine doesn’t shout for attention. It doesn’t need to. It’s the kind of place that knows exactly what it’s doing: letting the ingredients speak, letting the setting breathe, and letting you settle into an experience that unfolds gently, plate by plate.
The dining room is all soft light and clean lines, with gentle touches of sage green, marble table tops and a gleaming oyster bar setting the tone. The whole space is built around those huge windows that claim the full sweep of the seafront, the kind of view you could happily stare at all day and long into the night. It’s coastal without the clichés; no anchors, no rope knots, just a calm, refined palette that lets the food shine. From the moment you sit down you feel genuinely looked after, not in a showy way but with warm, intuitive, quietly confident service.
The Food
Ondine’s menu reads like a love letter to Scottish waters. Seafood is the star, but not in a showy, over‑worked way. This is produce treated with respect, cooked simply, seasoned thoughtfully, and plated with a modern elegance that never tips into fussiness.
Expect dishes that balance freshness with depth: fish cooked to that perfect pearlescent flake, shellfish that tastes like it was lifted from the tide an hour ago, sauces that enhance rather than overwhelm and vegetables that feel like they’ve been chosen, not just included. There’s a clarity to the cooking and a sense that every element has earned its place.
The menu isn’t extensive, but there’s more than enough to choose from; the kind of line‑up that keeps things exciting without leaving you overwhelmed. Oysters come either Cumbrae‑fresh (£28 for 6) with a fiery firecracker dressing or crisped up and drenched in buffalo hot sauce (£30 for 6). Starters lean classic‑coastal: Salt and Pepper Squid (£21), a hearty Provincial Fish Soup (£18), and Welch’s smoked salmon (£22), a lovely nod to Chef Roy Brett’s long‑standing relationship with Welch’s Fishmongers in Edinburgh, and their restaurant The Fishmarket in Newhaven.
Of course, the menu isn’t all about seafood, there are some exceptional non‑seafood dishes tucked in there too. We went for the Chicken Liver Parfait with quince and a brioche bun (£19) crowned with blackberries, and it was outstanding. Silky, earthy, and utterly moreish, the parfait had that perfect richness that just melts away. The brioche was warm and buttery, the kind you tear into slowly because you don’t want the moment to end. A perfect plate, start to finish.
And then there’s the XL Orkney Scallop (£21) -a showstopper! I haven’t had a scallop this perfect since dining at Kilted Lobster years ago. Exceptional doesn’t even cover it. The outside had that gorgeous golden bite, while the centre stayed just‑past‑translucent, soft, tender, and utterly scrumptious. Paired with the smoky‑sweet bacon jam and a sprinkle of chives, it was one of those dishes you pause for, savour, and immediately wish you’d ordered two of.
The Experience
What makes Ondine special is the pacing. Nothing feels rushed, nothing drags. Courses arrive with a rhythm that lets you savour the moment, the view, the company. It’s the kind of meal where conversation flows easily and you catch yourself thinking, “This is exactly where I’m meant to be.”
Within what felt like minutes, our mains were gliding their way to the table. I’d been eyeing up three fish dishes namely, the Lemon Sole Meunière with brown‑butter shrimps and capers (£45); the deep‑fried North Sea cod with warmed tartare and chips (£26); and the Roast Monkfish Au Poivre with peppercorn sauce and buttered spinach (£40). The monkfish won my heart, and I’m so glad it did. It was outstanding: cooked so beautifully it bordered on emotional, with a golden crust on top (not the skin) and flesh that was meaty yet delicate. Every bite was seasoned to perfection.
Alongside what is possibly one of the best steaks I’ve tasted, the prime Angus sirloin on the bone (£60), this dinner turned into the ultimate surf‑and‑turf, served with buttered Rattes potatoes (£7) and sweet root vegetables (£7). Between the peppercorn sauce for the monkfish and the rosemary sauce for the steak, we were more than covered. An absolute banging meal that hit every savoury, umami spot going.
The Meyer Fonné Alsace Gewurztraminer Réserve 2022 (£69) held its own beautifully - its aromatic lift and gentle sweetness wrapped around the monkfish and scallop, while the spice and structure stood up surprisingly well to the richness of the steak.
There was East Neuk lobster with garlic butter on the menu too, as well as a St Andrews cheddar galette with winter tomato and Lyonnaise onion -both dishes I’ve no doubt would have been tremendous. For dessert, we somehow managed to squeeze in (and I really do mean squeeze in) the Sticky Toffee Madeleines with vanilla ice cream (£12). Wow. What a way to finish a truly exceptional meal.
The Verdict
Ondine at Seaton House is a restaurant that understands restraint, seasonality, and the quiet luxury of doing things well. It’s refined without being stiff, elegant without being exclusive, and deeply rooted in the landscape that surrounds it.
If you’re heading to St Andrews for a treat, a celebration, or simply to reconnect with good food in a beautiful place, Ondine is absolutely worth the journey. It’s the kind of dining experience that lingers, not because it’s flashy, but because it’s honest, thoughtful, and beautifully executed.
THINGS TO NOTE ABOUT ONDINE
Seafood focussed with limited vegetarian dishes
They are wheelchair accessible
Limited parking outside but plenty in the sea front parking
Ondine Oyster and Grill, Seaton House Hotel, 76 The Scores, St Andrews, KY16 9BB www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk
My Spoon Award : Tartan Spoon 10/10
I was invited by Ondine and Seaton House Hotel to review their menu. Food was complimentary but the views are very much my own.
TartanSpoon is an Award-winning blog that brings you reviews and recommendations on the very best places to eat, drink and stay in Edinburgh, Scotland and beyond.
Adele is a writer, reviewer and judge living in Edinburgh. She sits on the Committee for the Guild of Food Writers (Scottish Events), is a Great Taste Judge for the Guild of Fine Food, Scottish Bakers, Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards and a Judge for the Gin Co-operative awards. Should you wish to work with, invite or collaborate with TartanSpoon, please email tartanspoon@yahoo.co.uk
